Sunday, February 20, 2011

Cradle this one in your pouring hand


WINE ... with David Bray

What do you really want from a bottle of wine? I am prompted to ask this by the promotional blurb for a book about wine, the latest manifestation of a publishing phenomenon that has produced enough books to fill the shelves of the State Library.


The message reckons “enjoying wines does not have to be difficult” and that, I must say, was the end of my interest in that particular volume. Who said it was? Enjoying wine is easy: Pick up the glass. Take a decent mouthful. Savour the flavour. Swallow. That’s about it for the bottles most us buy, those costing less than around $12.
More expensive ones deserve a bit of a sniff because if they have any genuine quality the smell will give pleasure. You know that smell and taste work together. The best wines, particularly reds, will signal their quality early on with their wondrous perfume. Sure, I have written probably more than my share of basic wine enjoyment information, but most of it was perpetrated 40 or so years ago when almost all of us were learning. Of course every day someone will have their first wine experience, but I would not dream of suggesting that it’s hard work.
But enough of this. I bring you word of a genuine bargain wine, of which I have never read a word in press release and very few words in advertising, never been sent a tasting sample.
It is Cradle Bay and when I buy white wine, this tends to be the one I go for. Clever name, reminding me of two good places, Cradle Mountain and Cloudy Bay. In terms of provenance it’s near enough an orphan.
The label tells us it is from Marlborough, NZ, made in 2010 and imported by Victorian business James Busby Fine Wines. No mention of a vineyard or winery. Nice bit of blending, though. The usual printed and internet sources are not informative. The label uses a few more words to enthuse about the wine: “ripe tropical and gooseberry fruit with a zingy finish and impeccable balance. A great aperitif or seafood wine made for drinking young. Serve lightly chilled.’
That’s pretty accurate. This has become our house white. Took it to a family do and a daughter-in-law liked it so much she bought a case for her next ladies’ luncheon, where it was well received. We took some to our gym’s Christmas party and so did several other people.
How much is this treasure? There’s some effective marketing/selling here. I first bought a box of six when it was offered with a pack of reds for a tempting price. Subsequently there have been similar deals on offer and one which saved me plenty on a bottle of scotch.
To answer the basic question, the price can vary from around $8 to around $10. All of which probably disqualifies me from the ranks of serious wine writers. Too bad, say I.

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NOW here’s a useful idea that we are not likely to see mentioned, let alone implemented, in Queensland. Under new liquor laws that came into force in Victoria on January 1, butchers will be able to sell 1.5 litres of wine or two bottles to customers at their shop to accompany their purchase. Not only butchers.


Bed and breakfast operators, hairdressers and florists may apply for a liquor licence to sell wine with their goods and services but it must come from one designated vineyard. They won't be able to supply a range of wines from multiple vineyards. Director of Liquor Licensing said that businesses like butchers and florists where the supply of liquor is only a small part of their services won't have to hold a liquor licence but will still have to meet certain criteria.