WINE ... with David Bray
Jim Barry Wines is one of the long-standing, high-quality producers of the Australian industry, firmly based in the Clare Valley, but now with a substantial interest in the Coonawarra. Jim Barry (1925-2004) was the first qualified winemaker to work in the Clare Valley and with his wife, Nancy, built a successful wine business that has produced trophy-winning wines since it began in 1959.
Today, the company is headed by Jim’s second son Peter, who took over from his father as managing director. Jim Barry Wines tell us, undoubtedly correctly, they “have an innovative approach to viticulture and a strong commitment to technological excellence in winemaking.
This philosophy is fundamental to the company’s ability to consistently produce wines of the highest quality which have won international recognition”. And you see what they mean when you look at the latest batch of quality reds recently to hand. Peter Barry reckons the group demonstrates good value at every price point and suggests that it would be a good thing if you tried some of the dearer wines: “Customers are afforded a great experience which is only enhanced as they move towards the top end.”
So let’s have a look at their reds, in price order.
The Cover Drive 2009 ($19.95) owes its name to the old Penola cricket ground, Coonawarra, which first heard bat on willow in 1950 but closed in 1996 and was then bought by Jim Barry, who planted a cabernet sauvignon vineyard there. Fruit from this vineyard and some from family-owned Clare vineyards were blended to make a rich, soft and ready to drink wine that might remind you of cherry, blackberry and Coonawarra’s distinctive cassis.
The Lodge Hill shiraz 2009 ($19.95) is all Coonawarra from what was apparently “one of the finest, most rewarding and classic vintages in recent history”. Here lie “coffee, blueberry, spearmint and cranberry” flavours in a very drinkable, friendly wine.
The McRae Wood 2006 shiraz ($44.95) records the vision of Jim, who bought 70 acres of prime Clare land from Duncan McRae Wood in 1964 and planed his first vineyard with shiraz. Here’s a big, robust, full-bodied shiraz with a perhaps unexpected but satisfying array of flavours.
First XI 2006 ((pictured above) $59.95) from Coonawarra, cabernet sauvignon, made in small batches, “only in exceptional years, to honour the legends of Australian cricket’. Rich and elegant, a wine they would surely love.
The Benbournie cabernet sauvignon 2004 ($80.00) is mature, refined and at the same time delivering super aromas and flavours of blackberry, prune and dark chocolate. Again, the Clare at its best.
And at the top, one of the very best this winemaker can do (which is very good indeed), the The Armagh 2007($250), which Peter reports “has retained its position of ‘outstanding’ in the Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine. Langton’s Classification was first released in 1990 and is considered to be one of the most famous wine classifications outside Europe.
One of Australia’s outstanding wines with wonderful length and flavour from the lovely Clare Valley”. Now there’s a collection of reds any wine producer, anywhere in the world, would be proud to offer.
