WINE ... with David Bray
David Lowe is a winemaker of enormous experience and expertise. I mention him here from time to time because his wines are interesting and very appealing. The latest batch to arrive are typically interesting products of the smaller regions that are creating new wines, new styles and generating a sense of excitement within the industry.
All from the Nullo Mountain vineyard, they are the 2010 Louee Riesling, 2010 Louee Pinot Grigio and the 2010 Louee “Late Picked” Riesling. High elevation, lower alcohols and letting the terroir dominate are the keys to Lowe’s winemaking: He believes in the dry riesling styles of the ‘70s, with the lower alcohol, fresh acidity and slow ageing potential.
His history of making Hunter Valley semillon is evident in these wines, with their vibrant freshness and the ability to develop complexity from slow ageing in the bottle. Louee Wines of which he is owner as well as maker, has two vineyards in the Rylstone region (part of the Mudgee GI) including one of the highest planting of vines in Australia at 1100 metres. T
he Nullo Mountain vineyard was planted in 1996 by Louee founders Rod James and Tony Maxwell. Lowe has always made the wines and the two businesses merged last year. As vineyard owners tend to do, Lowe loves the area: “The Nullo Mountain vineyard is a very special place. The mountain holds some of NSW’s most spectacular landscapes.
“There are savage sandstone escarpments dropping hundreds of metres into the Cudgegong River and agricultural country below on the Rylstone and Mudgee side and dense eucalyptus forests following down to the Wollemi Wilderness and Hunter Valley to the east.” The name Louee is derived from the aboriginal word meaning plentiful water. “With an annual rainfall of 1 metre and deep soils derived from 17 million year old lava flows, is it a unique vinicultural area. While it is part of the Mudgee GI, the wines are far removed from other Mudgee styles. The Louee wines are a true reflection of the terroir as there is very little work in the vineyard, and no irrigation.” Although unique in terms of terroir, Nullo Mountain is 50km from the Lowe winery enabling each variety to be brought quickly to the winery.
The grapes were then cold fermented using aromatic yeast to ensure that the fresh, regional fruit flavours were retained in the wine. Fermentation of the Late Harvest Riesling was stopped early, capturing the natural sweetness with balanced cool climate acidity.
“As with the cold climate wines from regions such as Germany and northern France, the natural acidity is an intrinsic part of these wines.”
• Louee wines are distributed by Lowe Wines and retail for around $25. Also on line at www.lowewine.com.au
