Temples test the temperament

By travel editor David Bray

Cathedrals rather than temples. Absolutely. No doubt. Every time. I’ve lived and worked in the United Kingdom, travelled a good deal in Europe and more recently a bit in south-east Asia.

Maybe it’s our heritage, perhaps it’s simply decreasing mobility and endurance that accompany advancing years, but it’s the Christian edifices that appeal far more than the monumental constructions of the followers and leaders of other belief systems. (Not necessarily the religions themselves, mind you. Buddhism appeals.) Which leads me to Ankor Wat.
Now I’ve spent the hottest day of my life clambering around Borobudur and had a quick look at the Pyramids while our ship made use of the Suez Canal. I’ve looked in awe at the wondrous depth off the Grand Canyon and felt welling love of our country at the majesty Uluru. But what about the temples of Ankor? Here is one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia. Roughly 400 sq. km, some of it covered in forest, Angkor Archaeological Park contains the extraordinarily extensive remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire, from the 9th to the 15th century.
They include the one most of us know about, the Temple of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the Bayon temple with its literally countless sculptural decorations safeguarded by a UNESCO program. It’s hot, dusty, bloody hard work climbing over restored and partly restored rocky temples. That’s what more than a few of our group of less-than-young but not-quite geriatric Aussies feel as we dutifully follow our guide.
Our bus had jammed in with scores of others and hundreds of tuk tuks and bicycles and pedestrians at the park gates where we and thousands of others pay US$40 for a three-day pass, including instant photograph. Someone’s making plenty of money.
Now it’s 9 a.m. and already hot, brown and dusty and traffic-jammed. First up is Ankor Thom. We are bussed through one of five huge gates to a causeway with 54 stone gods on one said and 54 demons on the other, mostly restored.
We walk and climb and clamber and see similar sights, many of them to hurriedly for those interested, not quickly enough for others. The bus takes us to lunch at a big, efficient place at Ankor Wat then there was a three-hour walk through what our guide book says is “the largest and most breathtaking of the monuments at Ankor and is widely believed to be the largest religious structure in the world. It is simply unique, a stunning blend of spirituality and symmetry, and enduring example of man’s devotion to his gods ,,, It is the best preserved temple at Ankor as it has never been abandoned to the elements… probably built as a funerary temple for Suryavarman III (1112-52) to honour Vishnu, the Hindu deity with whom the king identified”.
At one stage we are besieged by booksellers, scarf sellers and more than few pesky little monkeys. At others, we must negotiate long, steep stairways, narrow treads, no handrails. Dangerous for oldies and thank goodness for a few kind women in our group.
Back in the hotel late afternoon and to a good dinner in town at Viroth’s where half the group (out of Melbourne) join us, a day late because of problems with Singapore Airlines flights. While that mob catch up on Ankor Wat, we, all templed out, take a tuk-tuk into Siem Reap ($2) to the crowded and colourful old markets, then wander through the lively streets to Artisans Ankor which promotes crafts and trains young people. Bought a few things, then on past Dr Feet and Dr Fish (where tiny fish nibble the feet of those so inclined) , blind masseurs and on to Butterfly Garden restaurant where young people are trained in the business. Pleasant, OK food and cheap.
And so to an afternoon by the hotel’s very fine pool, then a room-service meal. So appealing is the pool that we spend next day right there and dined with the group in the hotel’s restaurant. Next stop, Kompong Cham and the Mekong River. Stay tuned. As for Ankor Wat and all that, I reckon that unless you are a devotee of old temples and/or the history of the region, one day is enough. Cambodia and Siem Reap are pleasant and welcoming to tourists.