To compound the crookness, Lehmann told shareholders New Zealand sauvignon blanc is “having a deleterious impact on the volume and value of all Australian white wines”. Which reminds me. Did you see the finance page report that French winemaker Lacheteau has been labeling its sauvignon blanc (probably from the Loire Valley) as Kiwi Cuvee? And is not allowed to do so any more after the New Zealand winegrowers took it to the law.
Anyway Peter Lehmann Wines, which the Swiss company Hess Group bought in 2004, saw its profits fall seriously last year, as did other big Australian winemakers including De Bortoli, d’Arenberg and Casella. Other sources estimate that there is right now a surplus of about 100 million cases out there and that this is likely to increase by 40 per cent as the strong Aussie dollar makes it even harder to sell in the USA and UK.
In the long run, this is not good for us as well as the winemakers Right now, think a bit about paying a sensible price for some seriously good wines. Such as: BlackJack. Love their slogan/motto/whatever: BlackJack is red. In fact it is good red, and interesting. Good enough to win serious awards very recently in Australia and London.
At the Le Concours des Vins du Victoria event, presented by the French-Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Blackjack won a gold medal for their 2007 Blackjack Shiraz and a silver medal for the 2007 Blackjack Cabernet Merlot. Le Concours des Vins du Victoria is a unique wine competition in Australia in that it involves a panel of French wine experts and commentators judging Victorian wines. At the International Wine and Spirit Competition 2009 in London, the winery won two silver medals across a wide international field.
The 2005 Blackjack Shiraz won Best in Class and the other silver went to the 2005 Blackjack Block 6. And adding to these the 2007 Blackjack Block 6 just won a silver medal and a place in the Top 50 for the second year in a row at the Visy 2009 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. Blackjack Vineyards is in the Harcourt Valley in the Bendigo Wine Region. Winemakers Ken Pollock and Ian McKenzie (one a pharmacist, the other a teacher) planted the vineyard in 1988. They released their first wine in 1994 and have won a reputation for fine, generous reds.
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The most recent arrivals are: BlackJack 2007 Block 6 shiraz, from vines planted in 1998, and “one of our most difficult vintages to date, with frost and drought combining to reduce production to below half the normal crop level".
Put it away for a while if you can, otherwise enjoy a ripe and generous red. Recommended retail price $35.
BlackJack 2007 shiraz from the original 1988 plantings, obviously same vintage problems. The makers say “the soft, generous fruit flavours build on the palate to a powerful crescendo of firm, ripe tannins of substantial length”. $35
Blackjack 2007 cabernet merlot from 1989 cabernet (90 per cent) plantings, a rather more elegant and slightly less alcoholic offering. $25
And BlackJack 2007 Chortle’s Edge shiraz, from district vineyards, generous and a very pleasant not quite so serious wine that will show you the classic Bendigo shiraz characteristics. $18-$20.
You may well feel that those prices are a bit higher than you are used to paying. If so, (a) give yourself a treat and (b) give a thought to the future of the Australian wine industry. Buy some delicious wine with a well respected label upon it. And enjoy it.
