WINE ...with David Bray
Here’s another Independent special: Cradle Bay pinot grigio 2011. It is special because your reporter found it, unprompted, in one of his local bottleshops. No “press release”, no sample bottle heralded its arrival on the crowded shelves.
The label tells us precious little: Hawkes Bay NZ Bottled for James Busby Fine Wines, in Melbourne 12 per cent alcohol (7.1 standard drinks) and its own tasting notes which assure us of “rich full and luscious with classic aromatic peach flavours, along with beautifully balanced acidity and a long finish. Well suited to sea food , white meats and Asian food styles. Drink young or cellar for 3-4 years”.
Actually, we have been looking for one like this since our first taste of the variety, in a pleasant little hotel in Vienna a good 10 years ago. Very welcome it is, and around $10.
And there’s some history to it. About 18 months ago this space carried the following gospel: “I bring you word of a genuine bargain wine, of which I have never read a word in press release and very few words in advertising, never been sent a tasting sample. It is Cradle Bay and when I buy white wine, this tends to be the one I go for. Clever name, reminding me of two good places: Cradle Mountain and Cloudy Bay.
“In terms of provenance it’s near enough an orphan. The label tells us it is from Marlborough, NZ, made in 2010 and imported by Victorian business James Busby Fine Wines. No mention of a vineyard or winery.
“Nice bit of blending, though. The usual printed and internet sources are not informative. The label uses a few more words to enthuse about the wine: “ripe tropical and gooseberry fruit with a zingy finish and impeccable balance. A great aperitif or seafood wine made for drinking young. Serve lightly chilled’.
“That’s pretty accurate. This has become our house white. Took it to a family do and a daughter-in-law liked it so much she bought a case for her next ladies’ luncheon, where it was well received. We took some to our gym’s party and so did several other people.”
All of which probably disqualifies me from the ranks of serious wine writers. Too bad, say I.
And here’s another view, obviously from an Australian commentator: “Cradle Bay Winery is one of many ‘private labels’ owned by Coles. These wines are likely to be sold via Coles’ many outlets including Liquorland, 1st Choice and Vintage Cellars.”
“Sadly these ‘private labels’ wines currently account for 35 per cent of all wine sold under $15 a bottle via the major supermarkets and have taken valuable shelf space away from Australian winemakers. Like many other ‘home brand’ products made by the supermarkets they are often made to increase the margin of the supermarkets at the expense of their suppliers – which often leads to the use of inferior raw materials.
“As a matter of principle and to show our respect and support for genuine hard working Australian wine makers, we do not review these wines and recommend that you avoid purchasing them.”
So there.
I have some empathy for this view, having tried with very little success to get wines from our own Queensland vineyard up on the shelves.
But I will not hesitate to buy Cradle Bay and any other sensibly-priced wine I enjoy.
