TRAVEL ... with DAVID BRAY
Things are changing at one of our country’s genuine tourist attractions. This is probably a good time to get yourself out to the $300 million-plus resort at Uluru, still perhaps better known as Ayers Rock, which over recent weeks been owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation.
Though the Anangu traditional owners were handed back the big rock and nearby Kata Tjuta (which used to be known as The Olgas) in October 1985, a lease agreement allows Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park to be managed jointly by the Anangu and the Director of National Parks. Today the park attracts more than 300,000 visitors every year from all over the world. The ILC says it intends to use the complex, which includes an airport, a camping ground, four hotels and apartments, as an employment and training ground for indigenous Australians.
It is reported to hope that by 2018, more than 50 per cent of Yulara’s 600-plus jobs will be held by Aborigines. Your reporter has been out to the rock several times, recently with Mrs B. We found that things work, on time, as advertised. A touch on the costly side, but then it is a heck of a long way from most sources of supply. We fly in (Brisbane-Cairns-Uluru) over a vast expanse of dry, red and dull green country, and towards the end, big salt lakes.
Into a big, comfortable air-conditioned coach and a cheerful, informative driver, who lectures us strongly about the need to carry big bottle of water at all times, and to drink plenty of the stuff.
In summer you will indeed need to drink litres, for which you will pay considerably more than you are used to elsewhere, except perhaps in nightclubs. Another necessity, we find, is a fly net, at least in summer. The insects are many and persistent and most tourists end up buying a net within a few hours. We see Asian people with body-length nets. Weird but doubtless effective.
There’s a range of accommodation here, from luxury to camping. Voyagers Ayers Rock resort (for that was then its title) comprises the five-star Sails in the Desert, the Australian Tourism award-winning Desert Gardens Hotel, Emu Walk Apartments, the modern Lost Camel Hotel, the Outback Pioneer Hotel and Lodge, and the Ayers Rock Campground, which has powered campsites and air conditioned cabins.
We spend our three nights at Sails in the Desert, which I remember as a Sheraton, a well-run, establishment with efficient staff, decent tucker and a fine, big pool, well used by all. Because this town is at the end of the line and the same planes that deliver the customers turn around quickly to take the previous intake away, there can be a wait to get into your rooms. Check-in is efficient but you are likely to have to go for a walk across to the shopping centre before your room is ready. The shops have pretty much everything tourists require.
The supermarket is well stocked at high prices, the day’s papers turn up shortly after the airline delivers them, the photo shop is on the ball, the café does decent food, though we found it slightly erratic in quality. The ice cream dispensary is usually busy. But you won’t find a bottle shop. You find this at the Outback Pioneer, where you’ll get wine and beer. No spirits.
A bus runs a regular shuttle around the accommodation-shopping circuit. You have come mainly to see Ayers Rock in the timeless landscape of one of the world's most beautiful natural wonders, and there are several ways to do it, from a dawn visit to a one at sunset. You may walk around it or be driven.
We are told there are more than 65 tours, local activities and attractions within the resort and the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Ride a camel across the desert dunes. Hop on a Harley. Visitors to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park must pay a fee, which is collected at border-crossing style staions. The money helps with the maintenance of the Park and contributes to the traditional owners, to help them maintain their families and the Mutitjulu community. The standard three-day pass costs $25. Children under 16 free.
The Anangu say: “Our land is a unique and beautiful place. This is recognised by its listing as a World Heritage Area for both its cultural and natural values. You are welcome to visit Uluru to be inspired by the natural beauty, to enjoy it. We are greatly concerned about your safety while on our land, because we want you to return to your families to share the knowledge about our culture that you have gained.
“When Anangu look at the landscape they pay close attention to its landforms, soils, plants, animals, water supply and fire history. They know how to use plants, can read animal tracks and understand the significance of weather changes. Some of their knowledge may be gleaned from several displays and information centres. Now here comes some controversy. Lots of people want to climb the huge rock, I have a friend who has run up it. People are regularly injured on the climb. Some die. The traditional owners don’t want visitors to do it.
“The Uluru climb is the traditional route taken by ancestral Mala men upon their arrival to Uluru. Anangu do not climb Uluru because of its great spiritual significance.
“Anangu have not closed the climb. They prefer that you - out of education and understanding _ choose to respect their law and culture by not climbing. Remember that you are a guest on Anangu land. Anangu traditionally have a duty to safeguard visitors to their land. They feel great sadness when a person dies or is hurt.’’
If you plan to do it, be aware that the climb is often closed, notably when the temperature is forecast to reach 36 degrees or rain, storms and wind more than 25 knots forecast. Climb it or not, every Aussie who can afford it should make the pilgrimage to Uluru, check out the Cultural Centre and walk at least part the way round the great red rock.
If that doesn’t stir some patriotism, nothing will. Last time I looked there was a Rock Summer special deal offering two nights accommodation for $298 per person with extra nights $49. There was talk of special airfares, too, but no specifics.
Look at www.AyersRockResort.com.au .
