WINE ... with David Bray
Medical people tend to like owning vineyards, partly I guess because they can afford to and partly because their training teaches them to be meticulous. So here is Mount Eyre Vineyards, a Hunter Valley operation combining, it says, a European family tradition of winemaking with a generation of experience in Australian viticulture.
“From our roots in the tiny towns of Alestena, in the Peleponnese, Greece, and Vallo della Lucania, Italy, the Tsironis and Iannuzzi families have an unbroken involvement in wine extending back centuries, tilling their vines and offering wine to friends and visitors alike.”
Dr Aniello Iannuzzi, very busy and involved, is co-founder of the Warrumbungle Medical Centre at Coonabarabran. He studied medicine at the University of Sydney, and concurrently completed a Bachelor of Arts in Italian Studies. He did his residency at Royal Prince Alfred Hospital and Dubbo Base Hospital, before establishing the medical centre with Dr Eve Tsironis in 1997.
Nice traditions here, and Dr Iannuzzi tells us Mount Eyre has been energetic and innovative, “typifying the vigour and vision of the modern Australian wine industry, to produce distinctive high quality regional wines for the pleasure of the world’s wine drinkers".
As well as domestic sales, Mount Eyre Vineyards is expanding its exports.
“At Mount Eyre Vineyards we have great respect for terroir. We have combined the different types of soils, aspects and altitude of our exceptional vineyards to produce distinctive regional wines," Dr Iannuzzi says.
Two Hunter Valley vineyards are involved. Three Ponds, more than 30 acres of semillon, chardonnay, chambourcin and shiraz, is on the sandy loam river flats of Monkey Place Creek, Broke. Planted in 1970 by Neil Grosser, it is still managed by Neil and his son David.
The name Three Ponds is the work of their son Theodore, who when three years old thought the three dams on the vineyard were ponds when he saw ducks swimming on them one afternoon.
The good doctor becomes almost lyrical describing the second property, the Holman Estate: "It represents a most exceptional site. In the heart of the Hunter Valley, its deep red loams have proven their worth and been shown by history to be the backbone of many great Hunter Valley red wines. Here 16 acres are planted to shiraz, merlot and viognier. It is also the site of Mount Eyre Vineyards guesthouse and olive grove, where we produce a small quantity of premium olive oil.
"It is from Holman Estate that the Three Ponds premium reds are drawn. In the heart of the Hunter Valley, Holman Estate has deep red loams that have proven their worth and been shown by history to be the backbone of many great Hunter Valley red wines. "At Holman Estate, we have shiraz, merlot and viognier, as well as some Italian varietals still in very small quantities. In excellent and exceptional years, Three Ponds produces small quantities of the Heirloom and Holman series of wines, for lovers of super-premium Hunter wines."
Five samples came with the courier:
Mount Eyre 2009 Three Ponds shiraz with which winemaker Rhys Eather has produced a classic expression of Hunter shiraz from a vintage that provided exceptional ripening conditions, leading to both complexity and concentration of flavours. Aged in new and old French hogsheads and barriques, this wine, the makers say, will age for at least 20 years. (Likely price around $24.95.)
Mount Eyre 2010 Three Ponds chardonnay, another typical Hunter wine, reckoned good for 10 years’ cellaring, creamy melon and peach. ($22.95).
Mount Eyre 2010 Three Ponds merlot drew it grapes from several Hunter vineyards as well as Holman Estate, has been aged in French oak barriques and will cellar for up to 10 years. ($22.95).
Mount Eyre 2011 Threee Ponds semillon is my pick of this bunch, typically excellent Hunter semillon, fresh, citrusy and minerally yet likely to cellar for many years which would yield notes of honey and toast. Who could be that patient? ($19.95).
Mount Eyre 2011 Three Ponds verdelho (pictured below) represents one of my favourite varieties, meant to be drunk young and here it is. Great drinking right now. ($19.95).
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