TRAVEL
By Carol Campbell
Lying in my beachside hut, the gentle lapping of the Red Sea just metres from my door, I could see the occasional glimpse of stars through the primitive palm-frond roof. This was camping out, Egyptian style, high up on the Aqaba Gulf on the Sinai Peninsula. I was staying at the Sawa Beach Camp 20km north of Nuweiba, in a setting so spectacularly stark and so very different from any other beach setting I have experienced.
The 28-hut resort was backdropped by red craggy peaks rising up from the mineral-rich range of mountains along this coastline. Across the Red Sea – named for the stunning reflections cast by the morning sun – we could see the equally arid and red mountain range stretching along the Saudi Arabian coast.
A beachside holiday in this part of the world is very different from Queensland, where we love our wide white beaches and the constancy of the rolling white-tipped surf. These beaches are narrower and the tides more gentle, and swimming is easy in the amazingly clear waters over the reef – perfect for snorkelling and diving to get up close to the spectacular array of marine life in this part of the world – amazing lion fish tucked into coral overhangs, huge sea urchins and clams and massive sea cucumbers.
This Egyptian beach camp is a world away from a high-rise apartment at the Gold Coast. But the simplicity – and the economy – of this style of holiday is largely its appeal. Bathroom facilities are basic but certainly adequate. The shared facility is large and kept spotlessly clean by friendly and courteous staff.
Everyone in our 12-person Intrepid tour group agreed this was a great way to wind down after a busy 15 days seeing the highlights of ancient Egypt. We were there in December, mid winter in that part of the world, but the days were warm and sunny and the evenings, although cool, required no more than a sleeping bag.
Average temperatures in the winter months (November to March) range from 15–35 degrees Celsius – perfect beach weather. And with an average annual rainfall of just 100mm on the Sinai Peninsula, visitors are just about guaranteed of clear skies any time of the year.
Which is just as well if you are staying at the Sawa Beach Camp, where the leafy huts wouldn’t stand up to the rigors of a heavy tropical downpour. Each hut accommodates two to three people. They all have a small porch, some with hammocks looking out over the Red Sea, and cotton handwoven rugs cover the concrete floors. The huts, each lockable, are small, really just for sleeping (mattress and mossie net) and storing your bags.
But any leisure time is spent either exploring the spectacular reef just off-shore – snorkelling gear is available for a small fee – or lounging around in the very comfortable and airy recreational area, where you can play pool, read books or sample some of the wonderful local cuisine at very reasonable prices.
We sat outdoors for most meals, which were reasonably priced for budget travellers. I loved the traditional Egyptian breakfast, with its mix of cucumber and tomato salad, ful mudammas (cooked, creamy fava beans), and huge chunk of feta cheese, served with pita bread. The chopped local fruit and yoghurt was another favourite, along with the fresh fruit slushy cocktails. Locally caught seafood features high on the evening menu.
Owner and host Salama is a mine of information, and can arrange just about anything from transport to and from the camp, tours to Petra, dive trips or just a cold beer.
GETTING THERE
2.5hr drive from Sharm el Sheikh airport. Bus service twice daily from Cairo (7 hr through Sinai Desert) Cost (per person): Lockable huts with breakfast $AU17 (one adult), $AU12 (two). Under 3yr free, 3–10yrs 25% discount Email: sawa_sinai@hotmail.com Phone: (0020) 0272 2838 Website: www.sawacamp.com
